Nowhere does that melting pot boil over more rigorously than in the cuisine. German, Italian,
French, Asian, and Southern traditions all add ingredients to what’s served up in this state.
Paula Reed and Steven J. Sumner explore it all as well as anyone.
Saint Louis is a city where food culture is inseparable from local identity, and no conversation about its cuisine can begin without mentioning The Hill. This historic neighborhood is a hub of Italian-American tradition, with red, white, and green fire hydrants signaling you have arrived at the epicenter of Italian dining in the Midwest. Generations of families have maintained the trattorias, bakeries, and grocery stores here, offering everything from toasted ravioli to cannoli and hearty pasta dishes.
But Italian food is just one piece of the story. Saint Louis has an expanding global palate based on its diverse cultural roots, with Japanese spots offering sushi and ramen, Thai kitchens serving aromatic curries and stir-fries, and Indian restaurants showcasing everything from tandoori to vegetarian specialties. Mexican cuisine has flourished as well, ranging from street-style tacos to modern interpretations.
The Bosnian community, concentrated in the Bevo Mill area, adds its own signature flavors. Saint Louis is home to the largest Bosnian population outside of Europe, and their restaurants and bakeries serve dishes like cevapi, burek, and rich Bosnian coffee, bringing both comfort food and cultural pride to the city’s tables.
And then, aahhh yesss, the barbecue, a hallmark of local identity. Saint Louis–style ribs, grilled and glazed with a sweet, tangy sauce, are celebrated across smokehouses and backyard pits alike. But, did you know about the pork steaks? Steven J. Sumner can expand on that. He and Paula Reed in Accounting can offer you, dear reader, a guided tour of The Culinary Melting Pot of Cuisine on the Mississippi.
In more places than not, you can get Italian food that is “out of this world,” Sumner says. From its unique thin-crust-style pizza, to down-home classics to the signature toasted ravioli, Saint Louis, thanks to its immigrant Italian population, is a mecca for Italian food.
“It’s the kind of food an Italian grandmother would make,” Sumner says. “You may also enjoy authentic Italian cuisine, almost literally straight from Italy. There’s a restaurant in nearby Clayton called Casa don Alfonso, which is the exclusive US location outside of Italy. They use the type of fresh ingredients and dishes I hear people would enjoy on the Amalfi coast of Italy. “
Saint Louis–style barbecue is defined by more than just its famous spareribs and baby back ribs. It emphasizes both grilling and smoking alike, with meats like pork steaks, snoots (crispy pig cheeks and snouts), and sausages often sharing space on the pit.
Everything is generously coated in a sweet, tangy tomato-based sauce that caramelizes beautifully over the fire. This style highlights bold flavor and saucy richness, making it a staple at backyard cookouts and local barbecue joints across the city.
“It’s a little sweeter than it is in Texas, with a little more sauce involved, generally speaking,” Sumner said. “And I do enjoy Texas-style, mesquite or oak-smoked barbecue just the same.”
Sumner points out something, though, that’s celebrated universally in Missouri when the weather heats up: The pork steak.
“Pork steaks in the summer, it’s something that’s widely available,” Sumner said. “They’re barbecued or smoked, seasoned, and then lathered up with barbecue sauce. When the weather warms up, there’s something about barbecuing, and the pork steak season just catches on.”
As Paula Reed says, she loves to try new foods. If there’s a food place in town she hasn’t tried yet, “I’m going.”
There’s something about living in such a multi-cultural town, where so many cuisines are celebrated, that goes beyond the food itself.
“You connect with the people in your area. You find something that you can all agree on, something that connects you,” Paula said. “That’s a good conversation starter. When we start talking about food, we can talk for a long time, and that opens up conversations to other things.”
Her palate, like the city, is all-worldly: Among her favorites: the burritos and fried chicken from Amigo Joe’s near the office. Zen Thai downtown. Tikka Tangy, the Indian spot in Central West End. Caribbean Delight in South City. Imo’s for pizza and Café Mochi for sushi.
“I don’t know what exactly led to this eclectic mix of great food here, but they’re here, and I thank God for them every day,” Paula said. “What it means is that I have all this great food to experience.”
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